Surfing Hurricane Ana
We are used to big waves and swell here in Hawaii but this is a bit different. Hurricane Ana has been hanging out just over a hundred miles away from the islands over the past few days. The rain has been constant as we are seeing the effects of this massive storm. We luckily have avoided a direct hit on the islands but unruly surf started to arrive early yesterday. The coast guard has been telling people to stay out of the water but a few of us surfers were unfazed and felt comfortable enough to check it out. I went down to one of my favorite spots to check it out. The wind was pretty consistent but not overly powerful so I decided to head out. There were waves ranging from crumbly 2 footers to massive overhead bombs. It was hard to choose which waves to go for but I managed to snag a few. The real enemy during this session was the ever present current trying to drag me farther down the shoreline. I fought the current and snagged some big waves but after an hour I figur...