Surfing Hurricane Ana

  We are used to big waves and swell here in Hawaii but this is a bit different. Hurricane Ana has been hanging out just over a hundred miles away from the islands over the past few days. The rain has been constant as we are seeing the effects of this massive storm. We luckily have avoided a direct hit on the islands but unruly surf started to arrive early yesterday. The coast guard has been telling people to stay out of the water but a few of us surfers were unfazed and felt comfortable enough to check it out. I went down to one of my favorite spots to check it out.
  The wind was pretty consistent but not overly powerful so I decided to head out. There were waves ranging from crumbly 2 footers to massive overhead bombs. It was hard to choose which waves to go for but I managed to snag a few. The real enemy during this session was the ever present current trying to drag me farther down the shoreline. I fought the current and snagged some big waves but after an hour I figured I should paddle in while I still have lots of energy. It was a good thing I did, because the channel in was like a raging river...flowing directly against me. After a long battle I made it back to the stairs and timed it just right so as not to be crashed up against the rocks. Luckily I know this spot very well. I might head back there this morning to see if conditions have gotten any better. Still, quite the adventure.