Capturing the Moment

Draggin' the hand Fiji Wave Rider   We made it to Fiji! The last stop on our Oceana tour is the island of Viti Levu, the main island in Fiji. We are looking for uncrowded waves, shark diving, and clear water. So far we are off to a good start.   Our adventure here in Fiji started off a little rocky. After flying a bit backwards from Christchurch to Sydney to Nadi we arrived, but our surf boards didn't! So after dealing with a bit of paperwork we were the last ones out of baggage claim, but luckily our driver from the resort was still there waiting. Since we were running pretty late our driver told us the resort is over two hours away and we wouldn't make it in time for dinner so we might want to stop somewhere in town. We said sure and he proceeded to drive down some back alley to a turn around lot with some trash on fire and a dark door with a scribbled "hotel/restaurant" sign on it. We thought it was a bit too dank to be real but we went in. I was almos...

 This was my welcome to Bali, Indonesia. I flew in to Bali's Denpasar airport around midnight and caught a cab to the nearby party town of Kuta. This is where young Australians and Europeans travel for cheap partying. As you can imagine it wasn't really my scene so after a day to get my bearings I headed south to the surfing mecca of Bali. From Uluwatu to Dreamland you have peeling waves as far as the eye can see. Waves with names like Padang Padang, Impossibles, Race Track, and Bingin can all be world class waves. I decided to stop and stay at a little place right across the street from Padang Padang and this is what I paddled out to. I was blown away. It was the best swell Padang had in a while. A super fast left that throws up a wild barrel was more than I could have asked for. I can't count the number of barrels I pulled into but I can count the number I came out of, 2. Unfortunately the GoPro had some quirks that made me miss alot of the big action but I still ma...