Getting to the Lava, Big Island, Hawaii

   How to see the Lava Ocean Entry on the Big Island of Hawaii

   One of the best nature spectacles on Earth has just gotten a lot easier to see. Checking the USGS Kilauea Volcano eruption update page show the lava is still entering the ocean. This is something worth seeing. It used to be difficult, and at times illegal, to make your way out across the fresh lava fields to see the active flow cascading over the cliff into the sea. I went two years ago in March, and had to sneak out past the county guards who were there to make sure only those that went out with a tour group gained access (check out that story here). Now it is a whole different story.

Where did this come from!?

   Guards are still at the end of the road, where the far reaches of the lava flowed across the town and beautiful black sand beach of Kalapana in the early 1980's. But now the guards are there to help you park, point you to the bike rentals, and remind you to sunscreen up and take plenty of water. I had no idea what to expect when I showed up but this felt like an alternate reality. Could things have shifted 180°? Now in the parking lot were bicycles to rent for $20-$25, porter potties, and families selling cold drinks. Then I saw the reason behind the big changes...a road.

  Somehow they had built a road through the impossible. One of the guards explained to me that 2 years ago, shortly after I had snuck out past the guards, the flow changed directions and started heading towards Pohoa town. I remember seeing this on the news, but what I didn't hear about was the emergency road that was quickly being built from Kalapana to Chain of Craters road which comes down from Volcanoes National Park. Just in case the residents of Pahoa were cut off by an advancing lava flow they could use this new gravel road as an emergency escape route. This feat was accomplished through the worst terrain you could imagine, over 10 miles of uneven lava flows filled with cracks, crevices, and subterranean tunnels. But somehow they did it, and now that the lava is flowing back into the ocean you can ride a bike the 5 miles without even breaking a sweat...all while someone looks after your car.

 We were in such a good mood from the ease of things that we decided to hike the 10 mile round trip so we could go slow and take some pictures of all the changes. Because of the road access some Kalapana locals have returned and put up small, off the grid houses in the middle of the lava flow. I noticed most had imported soil in to build up a foundation, rather than try to jackhammer and bulldoze the lava itself. I noticed one residence along the way put up a mailbox with the address, "Hot Lava, Hawaii" on it. I think we are a little off the US Postal Service route here. A sign said, "Feel free to leave notes" near the mailbox. Whether these new plots carved out of recent lava flows are old residents moving back in or homesteaders looking to claim the newest available land in the world, I could not say. They must know that it is only a matter of time before the next flow comes back. They are a resilient bunch so only time will tell.

 A gate in the road signifies the entrance to National Park lands. This is about 2.5 miles in, and far in the distance a plume cloud is starting to come into focus. More porter potties line up here along with trash cans. People in Hawaii are wonderful about caring for the land and no trash was seen along the entire 5 mile trek.

  A faint line of smoke can be seen far up the hillside towards the source of all of this lava, the Pu'u O'o Vent, which has been continuously erupting since Jan. 3rd, 1983. But it is down to the coast where the road will take you which is were the real show is, the lava ocean entry.

An adventurous hiker in front of the smoke cloud

  Finally getting off the gravel road you turn left and head across the lava for about 200 meters to a cliff overlooking the ocean. Across a small bay with a newly formed black sand beach a massive, poisonous plume of smoke and gas churns and rises up. Luckily the NE trade winds are normal here which will take the poisonous acid cloud out to sea. You would not want to be downwind of this cloud. That is why I would suggest coming in from the Kalapana direction instead of the Chain of Craters way.

A small boat going in close

  From here you can find yourself a good place for pictures and videos, sit back, and enjoy the show. Once the sun starts setting the scene in front of you changes. More and more shiny black rocks start glowing orange and small explosions at the ocean entry light up the inside of the smoke cloud. Small sightseeing boats jet in for close looks but are all out by sunset time to make it back before dark. The helicopters are all packed away as well. So to enjoy the true show the hike, or now bike, is the way to go. If you are staying in Kona and don't have a rental car then an organized tour group like The Volcano Experience can get you over to see the show.

Large Format Eruption Pictures For Sale

   Once darkness truly settles in the glowing orange becomes intense, like no other color I have witnessed in nature. The churning cloud takes on a life of its own and the crashing waves seem to be in an eternal fight to push back the inevitable growth of the island. It is an amazing sight to witness new land being created right in front of you. But you never know how long this flow will last before changing directions again, going underground, or drying up all together. This could be the last ocean entry on Hawaii in our lifetime, but then again, it could continue for another thousand years. In either case, don't wait. If you can't get out to Hawaii now, then at least you have the video below. I fear it will only wet your appetite.

  Seeing the lava ocean entry and the Volcano National Park is one of the "Big 3" adventures that are unique and must do's if traveling to the Big Island of Hawaii. Find out what the other 2 are here and see if you can complete the Big 3 challenge!