Amboseli: In the shadow of Kilimanjaro

Giraffe with Mount Kilimanjaro in the background

Baby animals everywhere!

   Day four of the trip brings us from Tsavo West to the Ol'Tukai Lodge in Amboseli National Park. The dust tornadoes on the horizon immediately warn us that this is going to be a very different environment. Thanks to the nearby presence of a massive volcanic mountain known as Kilimanjaro it happens to be an amazing place for wildlife, which is what brought us here today.

Baby elephant snorkeling while mom eats

Cheetah in the late afternoon light

  At first look Amboseli National Park is all heat waves and dust tornadoes over a shimmering mirage. But as we spend more time we see zebras and other animals plodding through the massive dry lake bed and we realize they are actually headed to a magical, lush, green oasis at the foot of the might Kilimanjaro. Small bits of ice glaciers that are still hanging on near the almost 20,000ft summit melt and feed underground lakes which bubble up here in Amboseli forming life sustaining marshes. Elephants wade through the waterways sharing space with hippos and buffalo. Baby elephants try to keep up, sometimes only their trunk is visible above, acting as a snorkel and a point of contact with mom. As we drive along the vehicle kicks up the constant dust which joins that which is already suspended in the air to give the sunsets an ethereal reddish orange glow.

Walking on a mirage

Elephants on the long walk

   Everyone's at the water so there nowhere for the animals to hide from predators. We saw a dozen lions scanning all the potential prey and three cheetah giving chase to some elusive gazelles. Scavengers like spotted hyena and black backed jackals search the flat-lands until the sun starts beating down. And on two occasions we had lions casually saunter right across the dirt path in front of our vehicle. It is amazing to see the coexistence of predator and prey in this relatively small oasis. It is even more amazing to see a solo Masai walking through the park in his tell-tale red wrap and dangling jewelry, watching over his herd of cows, wary of the same predators. The Masai are still allowed to use this traditional land even though it is a national park. 

Head on Elephant in good light

  The Old Tukai Lodge is situated in a tree covered oasis right in the middle of all the action. Doors are kept tightly closed to keep all the resident monkeys and baboons out and eating outdoors can only be done with armed Masai guards. Armed with slingshots at least. An encircling fence keeps the big animals out but gazelles sneak between the wires to graze on he manicured lawn in the early mornings. The pool is a welcome addition during the heat of midday, the food is plentiful, and the separate bungalow style rooms have a certain out of Africa feel that you only really get here in Kenya.

Old Elephant Close up

Different Perspective

Amboseli Postcard Scene

Sunset Glow in Amboseli National Park

Last light of golden hour with elephants in Amboseli National Park, Kenya