Leaving East Africa Behind

As East Africa fades away behind me I can’t help but think of all the memories, good and bad. It is definitely a land of contrast. Everyone has a cell phone but may still live in a mud hut and herd goats. The food hasn’t gotten any better but the roads have. National Park prices are skyrocketing and there is talk of doubling the gorilla trekking fee to a whopping $1000. Hopefully that is just talk. The lodges out in the bush can be awe inspiring for the few who can afford them but camping and budget options leave a lot wanting.

It was great to see the Mombasa highway undergo a major improvement during the last 5 years. I fear that it will soon go back to having huge ruts from all the overweight 22 wheel lorries that travel on it from the huge port of Mombasa to their inland destinations. Its too bad they can’t get the train working better, or even put in an electric train and really show what East Africa can do. Its amazing people drive at all with fuel costing between $5-6 per gallon. But two hours stuck in Nairobi traffic will tell you that is not the case. The roundabouts in Kenya’s capital are causing major traffic jams. I sense that Kimpala, the Ugandan capital, is not far behind if they don’t figure out a different system.

The chances to interact with wildlife are still some of the best in Africa. Places like Acacia camp where you can walk thru the Athi Plains with herd of zebra, wildebeest, hardebeast, oryx, and some angry ostrich, and getting up close and personal with Chimps and Gorillas in Uganda are once in a lifetime experiences. And flying eagles at Lake Naivasha was off the charts as well. The reef off Shimon, Kenya looked to be full of fish and lots of coral. The deep sea fishing also was bountiful although the fishermen tend to stay closer to shore these days as they are mindful of pirates from neighboring Somolia. Its amazing that East Africa can feel as safe, and be as productive being surrounded by the war ridden states of Somalia, Sudan, and the Democratic Republic of Congo. But they persevere on.

Showing the most perseverance is little Rwanda. A French speaking country left from the oppressing Belgium colonial days has come along way since it suffered one of the worst genocides in history only 15 years ago. Over a tenth of the population was killed in 100 days. Yet you wouldn’t know it now. It is a shining beacon of light in East Africa. The zero tolerance for corruption has made Rwanda an easy choice for aid money flowing in. They now boast the best roads (just remember to drive on the right), a much improved medical system (which includes medical insurance for $2/year), a ban on all plastic bags (they search vehicles at the border), and thriving mountain gorilla community (its where Diane Fossey spent her time).

Highlights include rafting on the headwaters of the Nile; lions, cheetahs, leopards, and the migration at Serengeti; river safaris at Murchinson Falls and Queen Elizabeth Nat’l Parks; making it over the mountains in Uganda nicknamed the ‘Alps of East Africa’; my first car fire; and many more. And of course Baseball 4 Africa 2010. It has been a month and a half to remember.

Now our group of 3 turns into 4 with the addition of my girlfriend Heidi here in Lusaka, Zambia. I am pretty excited about Southern Africa. Good roads, cheap camping, and incredible animals here I come.