It has been a week and a half of hiking thru the jungle, surfing incredible waves, and waking up to the sounds of howler monkeys here in Costa Rica.
I traveled by boat, taxi, and bus from Bocas del Toro across the border to the little surf village that sprung up next to Pavones, Costa Rica. Pavones boasts the 2nd longest left wave in the world. Sometimes it can go for more than 500 yards. It gets to the point where your thighs start burning from so many turns and pumps. Alas, I didnt see a wave connect that far but I did catch some 100+ yarders which is tops for me.
Other than surfing there isn't much in the town. A soccer field (they are definitely pumped up for the upcoming World Cup), a little grocery store and some cabinas. I found a little spot for $12 a night and lived off pb&j's.
After 5 days of surfing and weary shoulders from paddling I made my way across the gulf to Carate, the stepping stone into Corcavado Nat'l Park. This place has it all. Just about any central american animal you can think of is in this park. I saw anteaters, big snakes, beautiful butterflies, climbing crabs, foraging cuadamundies, jesus lizards running on water, and beautiful birds of every color. I even caught some unusual good surf out on the Carate beach break.
But it was nothing like Mata Palo. The break here was big, steep, and very trustworthy. Even if a section started closing out you knew if you just got by it the shoulder would be waiting for you again. Fun 8-10ft waves with Carlos and his in-laws, sunrises and screeching scarlet macaws made this surf session unforgettable. And some 10ft freefalls from the lip of the peak was but a small price to pay for the quality of waves that I surfed here.
Now its San Jose back to LAX for adventures with the crew of the Tole Mour.
-Here's hoping for the best for Abby Sunderland...