Big Waves and Closeout Sets

  In between huge close out sets like the two here, there were some fun, fast rides to be had along Oahu's south shoreline this weekend. One of the biggest swells of the summer decided to arrive after summer was officially over. I saw boat channels being closed out by huge waves, surfers scrambling up the rocks trying to get away from the pounding white water, and some amazing surfing as well.

    For me it has been overall a very good swell. I've had four sessions in the past three days, catching some of my biggest waves of the season. The water is still warm, hovering around 80 degrees, and the winds have disappeared almost completely. I might even have one more session left in me this afternoon.

  It is good to get these big swells right before the north shore starts lighting up to get prepared for the winter to come. Right now it is that incredible time of year when we have great waves on both coasts, which spreads out the crowd and gives you the pick of the set. Now I just have to give my arms and shoulders a little break. Too bad I'm not in Indo, I could really use one of those $10 massages.