Wednesday, June 22, 2011
A Lone Surfer
During the summer months Hawaii surfers wait for swell from the south caused by massive storms in the southern hemisphere to work their way up to the usually calm south facing beaches of the different islands. It is pretty amazing to track this swell over thousands of miles thru the open ocean and then watch how a surf break can go from flat enough to snorkel to 12 foot high waves overnight.
I have been waiting for such a swell and I eagerly grabbed my board for an afternoon surf session yesterday. Looking at the pictures you can see that, much like the weather, the forecasters got it wrong and the 12ft sets hadn't quite made it to Hawaii yet. But there were some very fun waves, and they looked absolutely beautiful with the offshore wind ripping the foam off the tops as they broke. Another rare treat that all of my California friends can appreciate, I was the only surfer out there. That made it very easy for Heidi to take photographs without having to figure out which little speck I was among dozens of surfers. We also found a place where I could surf the wave almost all the way into where Heidi was sitting.